Most drains run downhill to the sewer on gravity alone. A bathroom, laundry or bar sink that sits below the sewer line cannot, so its waste drains into a sealed basin in the floor, and a pump lifts it up to the drain line that leaves the house. That basin and pump are a sewage ejector system.
When one fails, the fixtures it serves back up, and what backs up is sewage. That makes ejector pumps one of the calls where speed and a clean job both matter.
We repair and replace sewage ejector and grinder pumps, along with the alarms, floats, check valves and vents that go with them, and we answer 24/7.
Signs your sewage pump needs attention
- The high-water alarm is sounding or its light is on
- A basement toilet, shower or floor drain is backing up
- The pump runs constantly, or cycles on and off every few seconds
- The pump hums but the basin level does not drop
- A sewer smell in the room where the basin sits
- Clunking or banging in the discharge pipe when the pump shuts off
- The pump is more than about ten years old and has never been looked at
When a home needs a sewage pump
If a fixture's drain sits lower than the point where the building drain leaves the house, gravity cannot carry its waste out. Basement bathrooms are the usual case, along with basement laundry, wet bars and lower-level apartments in homes built into a hillside, which the Upstate's rolling lots produce plenty of.
The plumbing code treats these basins seriously. A basin that receives a toilet has to be sealed and gas-tight, has to have its own vent to the outdoors, and the pump has to pass solids up to 2 inches through a discharge line at least 2 inches in size. The discharge has an accessible check valve and a full-open shutoff valve so the pump can be serviced without draining the line back into the basin.
Ejector pumps and grinder pumps
An ejector pump moves waste as it comes, solids and all, through a 2-inch or larger discharge. It suits the usual basement bathroom, where the pump only has to lift a short distance up to the building drain. It is the simpler and more common of the two.
A grinder pump has cutting blades that chop solids into a slurry before pumping it. Because the slurry is fine, a grinder can push through smaller pipe over a much longer distance or a greater height. That makes it the choice for long or steep runs, and for homes that discharge into a pressure sewer.
The two are not interchangeable. A grinder is the wrong pump to send waste into a septic tank, because finely ground solids carry farther into the drain field. Replacing the existing pump with the same type is usually right, unless the old one was the wrong choice to begin with.
Alarms, floats, check valves and vents
Most ejector failures are not the motor. They are the parts around it.
- Floats: the switch that tells the pump to start. A float tangled on the cord, stuck on debris or worn out leaves the pump off while the basin fills, or running when it should stop.
- High-water alarm: a separate float that sounds an alarm before the basin overflows. It should be on a different circuit from the pump, so a tripped breaker on the pump does not also silence the alarm.
- Check valve: stops the water in the discharge pipe from falling back into the basin when the pump shuts off. A failed check valve makes the pump run twice as often and can cause a loud bang in the pipe.
- Vent: lets air out as the basin fills and in as it empties, and carries sewer gas outside. A blocked or missing vent slows the pump and lets odor into the house.
- Basin seal: the gasketed lid and the seals around the pipes and cord keep gas in. A cracked lid or a missing grommet is a common cause of sewer smell in a basement.
Replacement and power outages
A sewage pump that runs a basement bathroom often lasts many years, but it lives in a harsh place. When it fails, we pull it, clean and inspect the basin, replace the pump with one rated for the head and flow the system needs, and replace the check valve and floats while the system is open, since those wear out alongside the pump.
An ejector pump does not run without power. During an outage, everything that drains to the basin has to stop, or it will fill and back up. A battery-backed alarm warns you, and a standby generator or a generator transfer setup can keep the pump running. If your basement bathroom is used heavily, plan for outages before the next storm.
Septic homes with a drain field uphill
On some septic properties the drain field sits higher than the house or the tank. Those systems usually include a pump tank or lift station that collects effluent and pumps it up to the field. That part of the system is permitted through the South Carolina Department of Environmental Services and is the territory of a licensed septic contractor.
Our side is the house. If the plumbing inside has to be pumped up to reach the septic tank, that is an ejector system like any other, and we install and repair it. When an alarm or backup could be either one, we help you sort out which part has failed.
How a sewage pump call goes
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Stop the inflow
We have you stop using the fixtures that drain to the basin and shut off power to the pump at the breaker before anything is opened.
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Find the failure
We check the float, the alarm, the power, the check valve and the pump itself to find out what actually failed.
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Repair or replace
A stuck float or bad check valve is repaired on the spot. A failed pump is replaced with one sized for the lift and flow.
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Seal and vent
We reseal the lid and pipe penetrations and confirm the vent is open, so gas stays out of the room.
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Test the cycle
We fill the basin with water and watch the pump start, empty it and stop, and confirm the alarm sounds at the high-water mark.
Not sure this is the problem? Describe what is happening and we will tell you.
(864) 415-7482Permits for sewage pump work
Repairing a float or a check valve is a repair. Replacing a pump, changing discharge piping or adding a new ejector system is plumbing work that the city or county building department may permit and inspect, depending on the scope and the jurisdiction. We pull the permit where one is required, and the pump's electrical supply has to meet the electrical code as well.
What drives the cost of sewage pump work
Every job is priced before work starts. These are the things that move the number.
- Repair or replacement
- A float, alarm or check valve is a smaller job than a new pump.
- Pump type
- A grinder pump is a heavier, more complex pump than a standard ejector.
- Lift and distance
- How high and how far the pump has to push decides the pump size it needs.
- Condition of the basin
- A cracked basin, a failed lid or a missing vent adds work.
- Access to the basin
- A basin under a finished floor or behind a built-in cabinet takes longer to reach and reseal than one in an open utility room.
Why homeowners call Gas Guys for sewage pumps
Answered 24/7
An ejector alarm at 2am is a real emergency, and a person picks up when you call.
We fix the cause
We check the float, valve and vent, not just the motor, so the new pump does not fail the same way.
The whole system checked
Alarm circuit, basin seal, vent and discharge valves are part of every visit, not extras we skip.
Straight answers
If the pump can be repaired, we repair it. You get the price before work starts.