When a tankless heater fails, it usually tells you something. Nearly every modern unit shows a numbered error code on its display or controller, and that code is the starting point. It is not the whole answer, because the same ignition code can come from a gas supply problem, a dirty flame sensor or a blocked vent.
We are certified to service Rinnai and Navien tankless water heaters, and we repair units from Rheem, Noritz, A. O. Smith and other common makers too. We read the code, check the history the unit stores, and test the gas pressure, the venting and the sensors until we know which one actually failed.
Many tankless problems trace back to maintenance or installation: a unit that has never been flushed, or one fed by a gas line that was never upsized. We will tell you if that is what we find.
- Duke Energy Trade Ally
- Rinnai certified
- Navien certified
Call for tankless service if
- The display shows an error code and the unit will not fire
- Hot water turns cold partway through a shower
- Water temperature swings hot and cold at a steady tap
- The unit clicks and tries to light but never does
- You hear the fan run, then the unit shuts down
- Hot water flow is weaker than it used to be
- It has been more than a year since the unit was flushed
Tankless flush and descaling
A tankless heater pushes all of your hot water through a small heat exchanger, and over time minerals coat it. The unit warns with error codes, a drop in temperature or flow, or a rumbling at startup. Manufacturers call for a flush, usually about once a year, and some warranties expect it.
A flush means closing the isolation valves, connecting a small pump and hoses, and circulating a descaling solution through the heat exchanger, then rinsing it, cleaning the inlet screen and checking the unit runs clean. Spartanburg's soft water means scale builds slowly here, but it still builds, and well water can build it much faster.
Ignition failure and the flame sensor
The most common tankless call is a unit that will not light. It senses water flow, starts the fan, sparks, opens the gas valve, and then shuts down because it never sees a flame. That sequence can fail at several points.
The flame rod, a small metal sensor in the burner, can get coated and stop proving the flame. Low gas pressure under load is another frequent cause, especially on a unit fed by a line that was never upsized from the old tank. We check incoming gas pressure with a manometer while the unit runs at full fire, because a line that reads fine at rest can sag badly under demand.
Igniters, gas valves and control boards do fail, but we confirm the cheaper causes first. Replacing a board on a unit that is starving for gas fixes nothing.
Venting faults
Tankless units watch their own exhaust. A blocked termination, a disconnected vent joint, a bird or wasp nest, or wind pushing exhaust back can all trip a venting or combustion fault and shut the burner off.
On condensing units, a clogged condensate trap or line can back water into the heat exchanger and trigger a fault that looks like a venting problem. We clear the trap, check the slope of the vent so condensate drains back, and inspect the termination outside.
Scale, flushing and descaling
Inside a tankless heater, water runs through narrow passages in a heat exchanger. Minerals in the water can settle out as scale, which insulates the exchanger, makes it run hot, and eventually triggers overheating or flow faults.
Spartanburg Water's supply is soft, so scale builds slowly on city water here compared with harder-water regions. Wells and other water systems vary. Manufacturers still call for periodic flushing, and many warranties assume it is done, so we treat descaling as routine service rather than an emergency.
A flush uses the isolation valves installed on the water lines. We close them, connect a small pump and hoses to the service ports, and circulate a descaling solution through the heat exchanger, typically for about an hour, then rinse with clean water. We also clean the inlet water filter screen, which catches sediment and can choke flow on its own.
If your unit has no isolation valves, we can add them. It makes every future flush simpler.
Temperature swings and the cold-water sandwich
A burst of cold in the middle of a hot shower is often the cold-water sandwich. Hot water sits in the pipe from the last use, the unit takes a few seconds to fire again, and a slug of cold slips through between them. It is a trait of tankless design rather than a fault, and a recirculation setup or a unit with a small buffer tank can reduce it.
Steady swings at a single tap are different. Low flow can drop the unit below its minimum activation rate so it cycles on and off. A crossover in a single-handle valve or a mixing valve can let cold water bleed into the hot line. A failing temperature sensor can do it too. We work through those in order.
How a tankless repair call runs
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Read the code and history
We note the current error code and any stored fault history before resetting anything.
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Check gas and venting
Gas pressure at rest and under full fire, the vent run and termination, and the condensate drain.
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Test the components
Flame rod, igniter, flow sensor, temperature sensors and fan, against the manufacturer's values.
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Repair or flush
Replace the failed part, clean the sensor or clear the vent, and descale the heat exchanger if it is due.
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Run it hard
We fire the unit at high and low demand to confirm it lights, holds temperature and vents cleanly.
Not sure this is the problem? Describe what is happening and we will tell you.
(864) 415-7482What affects the cost of tankless repair
Every job is priced before work starts. These are the things that move the number.
- Cause of the fault
- Cleaning a flame rod or clearing a vent is quick. A control board or heat exchanger is a larger part.
- Parts availability
- Some model-specific parts have to be ordered from the manufacturer's distributor.
- Descaling
- A flush is its own service, and units without isolation valves need them added first.
- Underlying gas supply
- If the real problem is an undersized gas line, fixing it is a gas piping job.
- Warranty status
- Some parts may be covered by the manufacturer. We help you check before we order.
Why homeowners call Gas Guys for tankless repair
Certified on Rinnai and Navien
We are certified to service both, and we work on the other common tankless brands as well.
We test the gas supply
Low gas pressure under load causes many tankless faults, and measuring it properly is gas work, our specialty.
Cause first, parts second
We trace the fault before replacing expensive boards or valves.
Descaling done properly
With a pump, the right solution and a clean rinse, through isolation valves, not just a quick drain.
Answered around the clock
A cold shower at night is a call we take.